It doesn’t take long after stepping into Canmore’s Das Schnitzelhaus to know that you’re in for a special experience. The cozy, beautifully designed space buzzes with animated conversation over beautiful dishes arriving tableside. Exposed brick walls, rough wood ceiling beams and gorgeous stained glass lend an atmosphere of sophistication right at home in the wilds of the Bow Valley.
The result of a partnership between luminary chef Ralf Wollmann and the group behind the Rose & Crown including Rob Filby, with whom Wollmann has partnered before. This offering, though, is special in that it’s an expression of Wollmann’s home in Germany’s Black Forest.
“This is his baby,” says Filby. “He’s always dreamed of recreating the food he grew up with, and he’s really poured his heart into this place.”
Not unlike Canmore, the Black Forest is famous for skiing and tourism, so Das Schnitzel Haus finds itself right at home on Canmore’s 8th St. thoroughfare. The story, though, is the food.
Chef Wollmann’s exceptional career gives him a way with this traditional food that surpasses all expectations. The dinner menu illustrates the breadth and depth of Wollmann’s experience and his passion for European fare. Wollmann designed the menu in concert with head chef Axel Stuebner, also a German import, who has 25 years of experience from Germany, to Austria, New Zealand and now Canada.
We began with the delightful lachs tartare: finely chopped salmon tartar with capers, lemon, onions, herbs and gherkins on potato pancake with crème fraîche. It’s unlike anything we’ve had before and sparkles with bright notes and creamy textures atop a flavourful Kartoffelpuffer, which brought a lovely surprise of nutmeg to the dish.
One can’t visit a schnitzelhaus without having the schnitzel and we weren’t disappointed. The hunter’s schnitzel was so perfectly done to a golden crisp and topped with an earthy, creamy mushroom sauce that complemented the house-made spaetzle. The portion was extremely generous and we had plenty to take home for later.
We also sampled the piggy pot pie with a rich pork stew capped with a gorgeous, golden pastry that tasted as great as it looked.
Dessert is a must (so save room) and for us, the apple strudel was a natural choice. Served with vanilla ice cream and a dollop of chantilly cream, this delightful dish was resplendent with fresh apples and raisins and the pastry we’d come to adore.
Visit Das Schnitzelhaus Mon.–Sun. 4:00-9:00 p.m. Opening for lunch in May and for brunch this summer.
